Stuck Fishing Rod Sections
We have all had that multi-section rod that would not separate at the ferrule. You twist and pull, perhaps grabbing a rod guide to help turn the rod, which often bends or breaks that guide. Over the years, I have tried everything I could think of to get stuck rods apart for storage or transport. Here are a few tips for separating that stuck fishing rod.
Use a thin, flexible piece of rubber to get a better grip on the rod section. I like to use the anti-slip gripper shelf/drawer lining material. These rubber liners are made to keep dishes and other items from slipping. We have used them in our camper and home shelves and drawers, and there is usually a piece lying around the shop. Wrap a piece around the rod and pull while twisting. Some rubber gloves also provide a lot of grip.
Another great way to loosen your rod sections is to spray a little WD-40 around the ferrule. Give it a few minutes to penetrate the ferrule and loosen the grip enough for removal. I like to hang the rod while I wait. Be sure to hang it so that the lubricant can flow into the ferrule. Try not to get too much on the rod section itself; you will still need some grip to pull the sections apart.
I just recently discovered my new favorite trick for getting fishing rod sections apart. Hold the rod section a couple of inches from the stuck female ferrule. With the section that needs to come out of the ferrule facing away, begin whipping the section in your hand, kind of like we do when checking the action of a fishing rod. By holding near the ferrule, the whipping action loosens the stuck section and allows for its removal. This works even on a stiff section that may not flex when whipping it, the section still moves slightly inside the ferrule.
Use A Bead as a Strike Indicator
Over the years, we have tried many different ways to hear a fish strike. Bells, electronic sensors, etc. The simplest audible strike indicator I have found is a simple plastic bead. When stringing your rod, whether it is your catfish rods or spider-rigging poles, install a small plastic bead between the last rod guide and the tip. You can get beads with a hole through them at any craft store.
The bead at the end of the rod will click on the rod when a fish strikes. It isn’t loud, but you can hear it surprisingly well when fishing, even when you have the music up at normal levels. I use them on my catfish rods as well. On those quiet summer nights, this system is loud enough to wake you up when that big catfish makes a run.
Keeping Your Bait Fresh
If you fish for catfish and like to use fresh chicken livers, shrimp or nightcrawlers, here is a great way to keep your bait fresh and handy to use. Begin by finding one large plastic coffee container and one small one. Place the small container inside the large container. I like to use hot-melt glue to permanently attach it to the center. Place ice inside the large container surrounding the smaller one. Then place your bait inside the smaller container. The ice will keep bait fresh and can be set close by to allow you to quickly bait your hook when the bite is good.
Use Slip Bobbers in Deep Water
Slip bobbers are usually thought of as a shallow water application. However, as fishing evolves and new ideas emerge, this is one that is becoming more popular among crappie anglers. When crappie are located in deep brushpiles, and they are reluctant to bite, a slip bobber can keep your bait in the strike zone long enough to entice one. Use a good bobber stop that can reel through your guides easily and cast to the cover where the fish are holding. I have recently started using slip bobbers to catch bluegills that are schooled up deep; more to come on that subject.
Boat Speed for Trolling
Anytime I post or write anything about trolling, mainly for crappie these days, I get this question almost every time. “What speed do you troll for crappie?” And as usual, the quick and easy answer is “Let the fish tell you.” This answer works when you really aren’t trying to help or educate the person asking the question. So, a better answer would be .9mph to 2.2mph.
Today I mostly troll for crappie, but over my lifetime I have trolled for salmon in Alaska, bluegills in Florida, and when I was a little boy, and before my dad left, we trolled for all species on Percy Priest Lake using plugs as they were called then. No matter where or what species you are trolling for, speed comes in question and varies considerably depending on the day. .9 to 2.2 mph is a great place to start but there are tricks to learn “what the fish really want.”
When trolling for crappie, I will usually start at around .9mph. First, low speed saves my batteries, and if the fish will bite at that speed, then that’s the speed I want to troll at. It is rare that I will troll any slower than .9mph. However, I have dropped down when the fish want it that slow. So, how do I know to go slower? By monitoring the bite. When you make a turn and begin to get a bite on the inside pole every time, this tells you to slow down.
Chafing Tubing for Line Protection
When using crimp sleeves to form a loop to hold a hook or swivel to the leader, you should use chafing tubing or sleeve to protect leader line from chafing. A small piece of this chafing tubing will create protection for the leader, allowing it to take the rigors of hard fishing.
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